Just uploaded a side view of the VTX but I am just using 3mm plastic standoffs in the rear 30x30 bay. I installed the VTX upside down for easier access to MIPI cable and antenna. I think HDZero recommends 5mm gaps for cooling, but this works. Someone told me that the underside is where the hotter chipsets are, so installing it upside may be better for cooling as well.
Yeah, I am an HDZero fanboy, but the Freestyle sure puts out a lot of RF noise.

Hey thanks. I didn't think about mounting it upside down. I like the standoffs, I'll print some I think. Right now my 3d print is most likely blocking some air flow.
No issues with your antenna mounted on the arm like that? I'm always concerned that the props will make this move around just enough to get ripped up. Not really a fan of how HGLRC has the antenna on a swivel print, so going to change that. Sorry stealing a few of your ideas.
Did you ground the copper covering your gps wires? I did for mine though I think simply moving it away from the vtx did the trick as well.
Dig like the fuzzy print setting on that rear antenna mount :D

No issues so far with the antenna out there. The TBS antennas tend to be pretty stiff and some confidence with it being a diversity that, worse case, I'd still be able to fly.
I did ground the copper cover, but yeah, not sure if it is needed. Like you said, main issue is the VTX.
Steal away! I did. :)

I get about 3-3.5 mins with this setup with 4S 650mah tattu batteries.
And it has more than enough power in my opinion.
Also got a lighter 230gr AOS 3.5v2 with only the walksnail and 1404 3800kv motors were I easily get 4-4.5 mins flight time with the same batteries.

How do you think 1504.5 and 1404 aompare? Which do youo like more

The 1504.5 have more torque and power and I would go with them around 240 - 260gr / the 1404 for me fit the quad that is 230gr or below.
Otherwise both quads feel very similar.

It's a 30x30 mount, printed in PETG, I designed to separate the motor wire cables from the VTX. The link is in the parts list. You can actually have 2 30x30 stacks in this frame. It's a pretty versatile frame.

Ah thanks didn't noticed the 3d print links. Why PETG instead of TPU out of curiosity? For the print do you have screws coming up through the frame or its ziptied down? I thought this only had a 30x30 in the middle and rear, but maybe the Armattan pictures are deceptive. Thanks for the reply!

Oh any any issues with having the FC in the back like that?

No issues with having the FC in the back. I do the same with my gecko builds too.

I have screws on the rear of the mount and I zip tied the front. I used PETG because it handles heat better as well as sun light. I have TPU grommets in between the VTX and mount. And the bottom of the mount is indented so you can put the screw through the bottom and the nut on top.

Ah ok, so you're using the center 30x30 holes just for one side of the vtx. Thanks for the info. Difficult to find a frame to fit this with any room to spare, my Apex build is so tight with that VTX.

Yeah, this frame has an amazing amount of room. Plenty of airflow.

Was there not enough room to put the FC in center and VTX in the back? Guess I'd be concerned about signal degrading with that ufl to sma and the length of the cable. Maybe not a problem.

No, there's no room if the FC is in the center. Maybe if you use a 20x20 stack you can get it to fit, or use the Race V2. I put it up front so I could use a shorter MIPI Cable.

Figured so. No issues with that ufl to sma cable? I've read that these can degrade the signal with digital, but not sure how much.

No, no issues so far with the sma cable.

Hey, thanks. Have not flown the fully battery out yet... Haven't really flown in a while now. Once I get a chance to test the flight time, will post it.

I am glad you enjoy reading my builds and I hope it helps you with your build! I just updated to the AOS 5 with a NEW camera mount, but have not had a chance to test it yet. Good luck with your build and let me know if you have any questions.

Your new printed camera mount looks really, really nice. Is there any way you'd be willing to share the file for it? I'd love to print a set. I'm hoping to get started on my build as soon as a few more parts come in the mail. Thanks so much.

I shared it already, I updated my post on thingiverse. :)

Updated - JAN 22, 2023

O3 CamMount 20deg v13 Grommet.stl
This camera mount is for O3 camera and provides better vibration dampening. You will need to use 20mm standoff to help brace the camera mount, but it is a little too short, so use the 3d printed M3 spacers below. In a perfect world all you need is 1mm spacer on each side of the standoff. But after calculating for the compression of the TPU, typically the 1.5mm spacer will work better. I added the 2mm version too just in case you like crush the TPU parts when you tighten them up.. lol

M3 - 1.5mm Spacer.stl
M3 - 1mm Spacer.stl
M3 - 2mm Spacer.stl
Spacers to use with the new camera mount and M3 screws.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5704198

Thank you!
I'm now upgrading this octocopter with the HDZero Whoop Lite Bundle. However, the FC's 5V BEC does not seem to be sufficient to power the VTX, so I will try an external BEC. If I get satisfactory results, I will post again.

Thanks for the nice note! I'll try to upload some video this weekend.

Thanks! I remember seeing Nick do something similar. The use of M2.5x25 nylon screws is the game changer for this one. It really creates a rigid structure for the stacked boards.

Thank you. I changed the motors for the same RCinpower ones, but 4500 kv.
Flies around 6 - 7 minutes on a 850 mah. I love those motors, I only buy RCinpower

yeah i know right?!? shoot. at first the motors got scolding hot..i mean like WOW hot. so i dove into betaflight an made some serious adjustments. an glad i did. much easier to control an dont have to worry about the motors getting hot. And I'm talkin bout 0-80 in a fraction of a second! 1:30 flight time is fine with me on this build, to be honest thats exactly what i was going for. An I'm sure with a bit more fine tuning an tweaks here an there i know I'll be able to get 2.30 in flight time.

yeah you were totally right. lil apex 2" is quick as the Dickens. but drains liops is just over a minute. what size of frame are these motors good for?

What is your purpose of fly?
Extremly fast with short flytime? Then not matter which size of frame :)
Cruising? Then It is not your motor......
but if you have them and want to build and use them? Then 2" is less "problem"
I tried them 3" 2,5" 2,3".... Now they are in 2".... not my favorite but better than other size!

very very interesting 🤔
like to freestyle micros. so speed now isn't a factor. but i guess it is what it is with these motors

Thanks! It was just all about the weight for me. I knew these 2305 are more than enough for my 500g AUW 5 inch freestyle build. So I figured they would be suited for 6 inch cruising :-)
This lightweight frame also only accepts 12x12 motor mounting - which is what makes the 2305 so light compared to the larger fpvcycle imperial. It could be that the imperials are more efficient, but its hard to know if it would matter given that going to those would also require a much stronger frame and would probably add 70-80g to the dry weight.

and also to be very honest I got a bunch of these 2305 when they were 50% off on FPVcycle due to being replaced by unibell design :-)

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