Squirt v2 HD 6S - 2004 / 2900kv Motors

By wrong17 on Apr 27, 2022

11  316  7

This is an interesting build because it did not turn out as planned. In the middle of this build I have been testing and idea of prop placement within the ducts and it turns out that it can make a difference. If the props are too high, you will some efficiency. Even though we are using mini ducts, they can make a difference in the amount of thrust you get. I will come back to this idea later, but in the meantime, I will take about the problem I encountered.

A while back, I bought some 1507 2800kv motors that was on a 3” quad, but never really pay much attention to them because I did not run 6s. Finally, I have a build that it would work perfectly with those motors. After building the Squirt, I notice that one of the shaft was bent when I was testing the motor direction in Betaflight. It has been so long since I bought it so, I cannot go back to the seller and complain about it. What should I do now, because I need some motors? Since I like trying new things, I came up with another test that I have not tired before. How would a Squirt do with 2004 T Mount motors? I know of 3 props that would work with this setup:

  • HQ Duct T75MMX5 CineWhoop 5-Blade Propeller
  • Gemfan D76 Ducted 5-Blade 76mm CineWhoop Propeller
  • T-Motor T76 3" Ducted Propeller

Of the 3 props I only have the HQ and Gemfan. I just ordered a set of the T-Motor props but that would not show up until the end of the week. If I had to guess, I think the T-motor props would be the most efficient, the HQ will be the smoothest and the Gemfan is amp hungry powerhouse.

I was kind of worried about the HQ props not having enough thrust, but I was wrong. I can hover with a Full GoPro 7 around 20 - 30% throttle. It is kind of difficult to know the actual throttle position because the OSD no longer shows us with the DJI HD system.

3D Printed Parts

In the recent weeks I have been doing a lot of testing with the variouse duct setup and 3D printing settings.

To sacrafice ridgidty I was able to save a lot of weight. I am not sure what is the typical weight for a set of ducts, but in the past I was happy with the 52g weight for the pair. But now, I am able to get a pair of duct down to 32g!

More info coming soon.....


I tried using the Presets on EMU 0.4.0 and it was bad, then I tried 2 other Betaflight tunes for the Squirt and they were also no good. It is rare to find this quad with a T Mount motors so I end up try the PIDs that was on a CineLog 35 because they have similar motor size and surprisingly, it worked very well.

Alt Tag
set p_pitch = 80
set i_pitch = 88
set d_pitch = 45
set f_pitch = 105
set p_roll = 82
set i_roll = 88
set d_roll = 45
set f_roll = 99
set p_yaw = 80
set i_yaw = 60
set d_yaw = 0
set f_yaw = 99


Alt Tag
As for the rate, I used the same thing I have on the Squirt with 2205 motors.

Alt Tag
set dyn_notch_width_percent = 0
set dyn_notch_q = 120
set dyn_notch_min_hz = 150
set dyn_notch_max_hz = 600


Fast Flying

GoPro 7 - HQ T75MMX5 - CNHL MiniStar 1000MAH 22.2V 6S 100C Lipo Battery

Same video as above but with the DVR

Madien Flight

Maiden Flight - GoPro 7 - HQ T75MMX5 - CNHL MiniStar 1000MAH 22.2V 6S 100C Lipo Battery

Same video as above but with the DJI DVR



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BaTTaN   10 days ago  

Very nice prints! What printer are you working with?

wrong17   10 days ago 

Thanks, I am using a Sovol SV01 printer

BaTTaN   9 days ago 

Nice I have the same printer but have yet to try do do multicolored prints with it being only a single filament extruder. How are you doing it if you dont mind pointing me in the right direction? Are you using multicolored filaments or fusing?

Jodie Froster   15 days ago  

I would like to try out multicolor TPU prints. I'll start with goPro mounts, and antenna mounts, as well as motor wire guards. Any advice for choosing filaments to do this with? Pro tips for good layer adhesion between the two filament types/colors?

wrong17   15 days ago 

I personally like using Sainsmart TPU because they are very consistent across all their colors. Meaning I do not need to worry about changing the print temperature between the different color layers. I was having layer adhesion issues when I mix certain brands.
I am not sure how you plan to do the color change but if you do it manually, I usually use a Filament Change code within Cura.
You do not need a purge block if you manually switch the filaments. However, you will get some oozing when the hot end comes to a rest for the filament change. I created an Arch that uses supports and put it on the lower left side of the build, so the hot end is forced to start and stop on it.
Look at the other picture to see some of my Cura setting for my Multi color TPU prints.

I am not able to upload a picture to this reply so here are the links to the 2 images.


Jodie Froster   14 days ago 

Fascinating! Thank you so much!

wrong17   14 days ago 

No Problem, Good luck with your prints.

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