Rotor Riot CL1 - How to build an FPV Freestyle Drone

By Whiffles on Aug 14, 2018

139  26,170  147

The Rotor Riot CL1 is a community collaborated design based loosely on the popular ImpulseRC Alien and the Martian II. It's a low-budget freestyle frame with thick 5mm x 20mm arms, so it should take quite a beating. Additionally it provides 20mm mounting in the rear for a VTX which is a nice touch. It's very easy to build and perfect for a first build. The parts I chose for this build are a balance between peformance and price. They offer a lot of modern features yet keep the price reasonable.


  • Swappable 5mm arms
  • Press nuts for lower profile
  • 20mm VTX mount in rear
  • OSD VTX control and tuning
  • F4 8k/8k flight controller
  • Current sensor
  • Powerful 2207 motors

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Be prepared for some very fine soldering work. Some of these pads require a lot of finesse and dexterity. That being said it's a good idea to use quality tools. They'll make a difference. I recommend a good iron like the Hakko FX-888D, but there are cheaper alternatives. Here are a number of required tools:

  • Soldering iron with broad and fine tips
  • 2.0mm hex driver
  • Industrial Tweezers
  • Jewelers Precision Screwdriver
  • Wire cutter/stripper
  • Scissors
  • Heat gun or lighter
  • Ruler and cutting mat
  • Multimeter

Additional Supplies

  • A variety of heat shrink tube sizes
  • Blue Loctite
  • Zip ties (small)
  • 63/37 leaded solder
  • Liquid soldering flux pen

Hardware Considerations

The screws are something you need to keep in mind when planning this build. The frame comes with 16 M3x8mm and 10 M3x10mm screws. These are for securing the top and bottom plates and the arms respectively. Unfortunately the motors only come with M3x6mm screws which aren't long enough. You need to order 16 additional M3x8mm screws. Now you've got a couple options here. I added anodized countersunk washers to the top and bottom plates to add a splash of color. These are entirely optional, but they require M3x8mm screws as well, but they need to be countersunk. So, if you want to add the washers you only need to buy the countersunk screws. Then you can use the 16 included M3x8mm screws to mount the motors. Otherwise you'll just want to buy 16 button top M3x8mm screws.

Also, I opted to swap the standoffs out for 20mm hexagonal standoffs. They're a little shorter than the included standoffs and offer a more low-profile look. Generally the shorter you build these the more rigid they'll be.

And finally there are the M2 screws. The VTX comes with a set of standoffs and nuts, but no screws. Fortunately the camera comes with a couple spare M2 screws, but you need 4. They can be nylon or steel. I've never had to buy M2 screws, but if this is your first build you may need to. If not then any of your other FPV cameras should have spare screws.

Frame Assembly

This has to be one of the easiest frames I've ever assembled! The press nuts save a lot of time and trouble. Typically you need a second tool to hold the nuts while you screw everything together. Here you only need a 2.0mm hex driver and a couple minutes. There's not much to say here except that you mount the arms below the base plate with the smaller plate at the bottom. Use the 10mm screws while the press nuts are pointed up toward the stack.

I used my own 6mm nylon screws and standoffs to mount the flight controller. It comes with some really long nylon screws which will work, but you'll need to cut them down to size.

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Update September 12, 2018: After a few test flights I found that the flight controller was a bit twitchy. After adding anti-vibration standoffs it flew great! The only thing is the flight controller M3 holes are too small for these. I used a drill to widen them which should also help reduce vibrations. Alternatively you can purchase some O-Rings and use nylon standoffs, but I still recommend drilling out the holes. Keep in mind that this flight controller powers the M3 holes, so the metal anti-vibration standoffs aren't ideal. I just didn't have the O-Rings on hand.


While it's entirely optional I like to sleeve my motor wires with Paracord, but you'll need either a 7/32" cord like BattleCord or a 1/4" cord like Paracord Para-Max. The smaller 550 cord isn't big enough for all 3 motor wires.

  1. Screw your motors onto the arms using 8mm screws and blue Loctite.
  2. Cut 4 pieces of cord to 7 cm lengths, remove the inner core and, with a lighter, melt the ends to prevent frays.
  3. Sleeve the motor wires and cover the ends of the cord with two 1cm pieces of 12mm shrink tube. One for both ends.
  4. Flux and tin each motor pad ensuring each is completely coated with a nice silver bubble.
  5. If you're right-handed start from the rightmost motor pad and solder all 6 wires from right to left.
    • If you're left handed start from the left.
    • Cut each wire to length as you go, not all at once.
  6. Position the shrink tube over the ends of the cord and melt it.
    • You can use a heat gun to make quick work of this, but don't hold it over your FC too long.

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Now you can add the receiver. It's always a good idea to get this out of the way early so you can bind it and tuck it away. I installed the FrSky XM+, so your wiring may vary depending on the receiver you chose. One thing to keep in mind is I used the inverted SBUS pad on the flight controller. If you're using an un-inverted IBUS recever for a Flysky radio you'll need to do things a little differently. You'll likely want to solder your control wire to the TX6 pad toward the middle of the board.

  1. First solder 3 wires to the receiver.
    • I borrowed the wire from the camera wire harness. Use the black, red and green wire from the end.
    • Make sure you give yourself enough wire slack to slide the receiver under the flight controller.
  2. Solder the wires to the 5v, Gnd and SBUS pads.
  3. Slide the receiver under the flight controller so the bind button and antennas pointed forward.
  4. Add shrink tube to the receiver to protect it from shorts.
    • You don't need to shrink the tubing or even tape the receiver down. The wire and antennas should hold it in place.
  5. Add small zip ties to the front arms and use shrink tube to hold the antennas in place.

Power Connector

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Before you bind you need power. This board comes with 16awg wire pre-soldered which is fine, but 14awg is more common. Also, it's a good idea to solder a capacitor to your XT60. This helps filter electrical noise and can help eliminate random twitches during flight. You might also want to remove the pre-soldered wires to make this a little easier. I used my own 14awg wire, soldered the capacitor and XT60 and then attached them to the board.

I used short battery leads, but if you're prone to crash often you may want to add some stress relief. With enough force the battery may eject and break the flight controller tab. To do this use longer battery leads and zip tie them to the frame.

  1. Snip and bend the capacitor so the wires dip into the XT60 wells.
    • Make sure the polarity is correct.
  2. Fill the wells with solder.
  3. Solder one wire at a time into the wells in addition to the capacitor wires.
    • I used about 4cm of wire for either side.
  4. Add hot glue between the XT60 wells to prevent shorts.
  5. Cover it up with heat shrink.
  6. Solder the wires to the flight controller.

You might notice I added the XT60 without a capacitor at first. I thought I might find a better place for it later, but it turns out this is the ideal location. It needs to be as close as possible to the battery.

Finally, be sure to test your main power leads for continuity with a multimeter before powering up. Once you're sure there aren't any shorts you should bind your receiver. Instructions vary depending on your radio, but generally you want to put your radio into bind mode, hold the receiver bind button, power up, wait for the lock and power down.

FPV Camera

This frame comes with camera brackets, but they're blue so I used a 3D printed variation in black. It's listed below in the part list. I found it easier to screw the brackets onto the camera before attaching them to the frame, but the stock brackets should work fine either way. Once the camera is mounted you need to solder the wires to the flight controller.

  1. Remove the purple wire from the wire harness as the voltage reading is redundant.
  2. Plug the wire harness into the camera and cut the wires to length to their respective pads, offering a little slack.
    • You can optionally add some 550 Paracord and shrink tube to cover the wires.
  3. Solder the wires to their respective pads.

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Update September 12, 2018: I found that the 5v output of the flight controller introduces a little camera noise. I suggest powering the camera via the 5v output of the VTX instead. Then, in-turn, you'll need to power the VTX by piggybacking the power leads onto the main battery leads. This produces a nice, clean picture.

Video Transmitter

I love that this frame includes holes for the VTX mount. Mount the standoffs using the aforementioned M2 screws and attach the VTX. Those tiny M2 nuts can be a bit finicky, but it works well to twist them down with your thumb. Make sure the VTX pads are pointed toward the flight controller so you can wire it up.

  1. Using the spare wire from the camera add wire to the Video, OSD_RX, Gnd_in, and 7-26v pads.
    • Again you can optionally add 550 Paracord to protect the wires.
  2. Solder the wires to the flight controller.
    • OSD_RX needs to be soldered to the very tiny TX6 pad in the middle of the board.
    • I just doubled up on the 5v pad to give power to both the VTX and camera.

While the VTX says it takes 7-26v it works on 5v. I've done this in the past on other builds and it hasn't been a problem.

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Camera Configuration

Now that you've wired the camera and VTX you can adjust your camera settings. Plug in your quad and check that the video feed is functioning. Then, using the included joystick you can plug into the wired connector behind the camera. Mainly all you want to do here is disable the camera OSD. We'll be using the OSD provided by the flight controller instead. Press and hold the up button to access the OSD menu. Disable each option and save.

Finishing Up

Finally, you need to attach all the standoffs and the top plate. I used a slightly longer dipole antenna instead of the included one. While this isn't entirely necessary, it's a good idea to stand your antenna as tall as possible to clear the battery. To mount the antenna I used a pair of interlocked zip ties to give it a rigid surface to latch onto. The antenna runs along the zip tie with shrink tube to hold it in place. This helps reduce stress on the U.Fl connector and keeps the antenna away from the props. You might be tempted to use hot glue to hold the U.fl connector in place, but it'll most likely melt under the heat of the VTX. The zip ties should prevent the antenna from pulling away from the board.

To mount the battery it's a good idea to use a battery pad like Ummagrip or Nomojel to prevent it from sliding out. For added protection you can use two battery straps. You don't want a battery ejection!

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Betaflight Configuration

If you don't already have them, you'll need to download Betaflight Configurator [Download] and the BLHeli Configurator [Download].

  1. First go to the Firmware Flasher and choose "LUXF4OSD" as well as the latest stable release of Betaflight.
  2. Click "Load Firmware [Online]" and then "Flash Firmware" to update your flight controller. Once complete, click "Connect"
  3. On the Ports tab
    • On UART1 click Serial RX for your receiver.
    • Set the UART6 Peripherals to "IRC Tramp".
    • Click Save and Reboot
  4. On the Configuration tab
    • Under ESC/Motor Features select DSHOT600
    • If want to fly "props out" with reversed motors, select "Motor direction is reversed" below the illustration. (This is optional)
    • Under Board and Sensor Alignment set Yaw Degrees to 90 to address the rotated flight controller.
    • Under System configuration set PID loop frequency to 8 kHz.
    • Under Receiver choose your receiver mode. For the XM+ choose "Serial-based receiver" and "SBUS"
    • Under Arming set the Max arm angle to 180 (Only if you keep the accelerometer turned on)
    • Under Other Features enable: Airmode, OSD, Anti Gravity and Dynamic Filter
    • Under DSHOT Beacon Configuration enable the beacon
    • Click Save and Reboot
  5. Go to the CLI tab and enter the following commands to place the motors in the proper positions:
resource MOTOR 1 B01
resource MOTOR 2 A02
resource MOTOR 3 B00
resource MOTOR 4 A03

To complete the remaining steps you'll need to apply lipo power to your build:

  1. On the Receiver tab ensure your pitch, roll, throttle and yaw are being applied correctly. Adjust your transmitter and Channel Map as needed.
  2. On the Modes tab
    • Assign an Aux switch to arm and disarm your quad.
    • Assign another Aux switch to enable Horizon or Angle mode if you need them.
    • Assign the Beeper and "Flip over after crash" to a 3rd and/or 4th switch. I like to assign them both to a single 3 point toggle switch.
  3. On the Motors tab enable the motor test and apply a small amount power to check the rotation of each motor. Take note of any that need to be reversed.
  4. Disconnect from Betaflight Configurator and open BLHeli Configurator
    • Flash all ESCs to the latest firmware release.
    • Reverse the motor direction of any motors that need it.
    • Save and reconnect to Betaflight Configurator to test the motor direction.
  5. On the OSD tab
    • Check all of the features you want and arrange your OSD as desired.

And that's it! The default Failsafe settings are generally fine, but make sure they work by arming your quad, applying a small amount of throttle and turning off your transmitter. It should shut down after 4 seconds.


Part List


Rotor Riot CL1 5" Frame (33 builds)

Flight Controller

Cicada AIO Flight Controller (F4, 30x4 BLHeli_S DSHOT ESC, OSD, PDB w/BEC, Current Sensor) (16 builds)


4 x DYS Samguk Series Wei 2207 2300kv Motor (73 builds)


Lumenier 5x5.3x3 - Gate Breaker Propeller (Set of 4 - WILDWILLY Pink) (6 builds)

FPV Camera

Foxeer Arrow Micro Pro - 600TVL FPV Camera - Blue (14 builds)

FPV Transmitter

HGLRC XJB-TX20 V2 Mini FPV Transmitter (16 builds)


FuriousFPV 70mm 5.8GHz U.FL Linear Antenna (11 builds)


FrSky XM+ SBUS Mini Receiver (1149 builds)
See Site


CNHL G+Plus 1300mah 4s 100c Lipo Battery (19 builds)


FrSky X-Lite 2.4GHz Radio Controller (Red) (65 builds)


2 x Black Hex Standoffs 20mm (4 pcs) (3 builds)

Misc Parts

LU-CC 180Pcs M3 Black Nylon Spacers Hex Nut Screw Stand-off Plastic Accesories Assortment Kit (2 builds)

Misc Parts

uxcell M3x8mm 10.9 Carbon Steel Countersunk Head Hex Socket Screw 50pcs

Misc Parts

Black XT60 Power Connectors (5 Pair) (9 builds)

Misc Parts

Anti-Vibration Flight Controller Standoff (7 builds)

Misc Parts

Heat Shrink Tube Assortment Box - 508pcs Black (6 builds)

Misc Parts

Silicone Wire 14awg (1mtr) (4 builds)

Misc Parts

M3x8 Long Motor Mounting Screw Set (16pcs) (2 builds)

Misc Parts

M3x8 Long Motor Mounting Screw Set (16pcs) (2 builds)

Misc Parts

Panasonic 35V 470uF LOW ESR Capacitor (14 builds)

Misc Parts

M3 Rubber O-Ring For Flight Controllers - Black (25pcs)

Misc Parts

16 x M3 Countersunk Washer (1 Pc.)

Misc Parts

Lumenier Indestructible Kevlar Lipo Strap - 16x220mm (3pcs) (10 builds)
See Site

Misc Parts

Ummagrip Universal Sticky Battery Pad (175 builds)
See Site

Misc Parts

Hyperlite Floss Micro Swift camera mounts by Dblnaknak (2 builds)
See Site
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Sign in to comment

schmick96   Oct 07, 2020  

Hey Whiffles! I've looked at a few of your builds and I want this one to be my first build. It looks like you made it a couple years ago so I was wondering if you have any suggestions/alterations you would add now that some time has passed. Also I don't see any goggles on your gear list. What kind of goggles would you recommend?

Show 5 more comments
schmick96   Nov 22, 2020 

The arm switch is greyed out. I have it set to aux 2 and a range of 1300 to 1700. I'm not sure how to fix it.

schmick96   Nov 22, 2020 

I just found a switch on the radio that made it light up red, but only to tell me its disabled.

Whiffles   Nov 22, 2020 

It should indicate that you armed by flipping the switch when the quad is powered and plugged in via USB. Always good to have your props off when you do this though.

bugsysiegals   Jun 23, 2020  

Love the color scheme and build. About the motor wires, do these wire wraps work well to protect them from prop strikes or are they more just for looks?

Whiffles   Jun 23, 2020 

This particular type is great to protect against prop strikes. The plastic sleeving not so much.

bugsysiegals   Jun 23, 2020 

I didn't understand ... what type is great?

Whiffles   Jun 24, 2020 

The Para-Max I used here.

Beast0313   Mar 22, 2019  

hey there im making this kwad but with diffrent stuff im using the bardwell F4 v2 DYS 32bit 35A ESCS, Rush Tank VTX MB PRIMO 2207 2650kv and CADDX SDR2 freestyle. i was wondring what size paracord did you use for this build?? i want mine to look good n be protected as much as possible

maximus   Mar 02, 2019  

Is there an advantage in taking a FC without built in ESCs? Or is it recommended to have a AIO?

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maximus   Mar 02, 2019 

How would it stack compared to Tramp HV? Or would it be pretty much the same?

Whiffles   Mar 02, 2019 

The Tramp HV is an older VTX. It's a lot larger and I don't see much benefit to using it over any other VTX. These video transmitters more or less all function the same. The only big difference is the features such as OSD control, output power, cost and size. What matters most to me is how well it'll mount onto the frame and cost. I pretty much expect everything to support at least 200mw and OSD control at this point.

maximus   Mar 03, 2019 

OK, thanks for the quick replies! The guides are also very good btw. First build here I come :))

mimiTe   Jan 20, 2019  

hi what a nice build :) no problem with 35a burst and 5051 props?

Whiffles   Jan 20, 2019 

Not a problem!

mimiTe   Jan 20, 2019 

sorry I mean 5x5.3x3 luminear,

Whiffles   Jan 20, 2019 

Should be fine

SharkFPV   Jan 06, 2019  

Hi Whiffles,
I finished this build and it looks amazing but I have an issue.
Quick summary:
Soldering complete.
I flashed the most up to date firmware into my frksy qx7, my receiver and my flight controller.
I tested the googles and the camera, both working fine.
I bind the remote and the receiver.
I tested all the motors as you suggested no issues at all.

When I test the frsky qx7 inside the betaflight nothing moves. Not sure what am I doing wrong ...
Few pictures below.
Thank you.

Show 16 more comments
Whiffles   Jan 14, 2019 

Why not make a cable? Do you have the connectors you need?

SharkFPV   Jan 14, 2019 

I was missing the x60 connectors. I have the cable now so I will fly this weekend !!!! I wish I could fly during the week but when I leave work it's night time already -_- About the propellers is there a special way to put them in or it doesn't matter ?

Whiffles   Jan 14, 2019 

Yes, you need to make sure the props are installed correctly. I believe you're configured for "props in" so make sure the leading edges rotate inward toward the middle of the quad, both front and back. Betaflight illustrates the prop directions on the Configuration page. Make sure you can identify the leading edge which is the part that bends upward.

KoWaBuNga   Jan 06, 2019  

Best CL1 ive seen so far. am thinking of a similar build but with 15mm standoffs. do you think that would be possible?

Whiffles   Jan 07, 2019 

That'll be a tight fit for the camera. I'm not sure you can do it with this cam. I'd probably just stick to 20mm.

KoWaBuNga   Jan 07, 2019 

Right ok thank you

KC Lec   Dec 11, 2018  

Almost complete, some work left on betaflight and I'll be in the air. Coding the motors is my next step.

Whiffles   Dec 11, 2018 

Awesome! Let me know if you have any questions.

KC Lec   Dec 11, 2018 

I do. I attempted to program motor location last night, first time with AO1 then realized it was a A01, zero not O's, typed save, upper left status bar said device rebooting and waited 25 minutes, it was real late so I left it plugged in. Guess the computer went to sleep before it finished because at 3 am it was still rebooting so I disconnected. How long should it take to reboot after motor program? Trying it again this evening.

Whiffles   Dec 11, 2018 

It takes no time at all. If it hangs then just click disconnect and then you can reconnect.

fr3nchfry65   Dec 07, 2018  

Hi Whiffles, I flashed the ESCs in BLHELI Configurator and used the G-H-30 target with version 16.65 blheli-multishot. Is this correct? It's my first build. I used the same components as referenced in your build posted on getfpv. Thanks!!

Whiffles   Dec 10, 2018 

I usually just flash the ESCs to the latest version. I believe you should be fine. Have you managed a maiden flight yet?

fr3nchfry65   Dec 10, 2018 

Nope. I'll let you know. Thanks for the advice.

MindplayFPV   Nov 19, 2018  

is the target of "luxf4osd" correct for the cicada? see other people using omnibusf4 and getfpv suggested vgoodf4?

Whiffles   Nov 19, 2018 

It works for me. Somebody mentioned it in the reviews section on GetFPV. You can probably get away with those others as this is a very common infrastructure. In fact I believe the Lux F4 is based on the Omnibus F4.

MindplayFPV   Nov 19, 2018 

was just curious i used the cicada aio in a hyperlow cg build and it wont distribute power to components with luxf4 or omnibusf4 so get fpv puts me at fault said i shouldve used vgoodf4 but i saw you used lux, thanks for the info.

Whiffles   Nov 19, 2018 

Strange. I did find that the power to the camera was a little dirty, but it worked.

ALUSMC   Oct 16, 2018  

What size m2 screws for the standoffs? Thank you for doing this build looking to do this together with the mancub for a fall/winter build.

Whiffles   Oct 17, 2018 

I'd probably use 4-6mm screws to secure the VTX standoffs. The baseplate is 2mm and you need at least 2mm into the standoffs.

Devonfreestylefpv   Oct 07, 2018  

think im going to try this build depending on parts for uk would a run cam split fit on this ?

Whiffles   Oct 07, 2018 

Sure, but you may not be able to use 20mm standoffs. It may require 25mm because the camera is a little larger. You might be able to get away with 20mm using the Caddx Turtle V2 though.

Devonfreestylefpv   Oct 07, 2018 

Thank you i will look into getting the parts, cost ect i used to fly Trex 450 dominator helis and build them but i got too busy at work. Since then i have watched fpv videos on utube and really want to get into it and start my youtube up again !

Whiffles   Oct 07, 2018 

Definitely watch several build videos and fly a simulator before you get started. There's a lot to learn!

Jeffmhopkins   Aug 14, 2018  

ill 5.5" props fit the CL1?

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

I don't have any 5.5" props to test on it, but 5.1" fit just fine.

Jeffmhopkins   Oct 02, 2018 

For those wondering, 5552 will fit, barely.

Kryoid   Sep 29, 2018  

maybe i am doing or, have ordered something wrong but I cannot get my motor screw holes to line up on the CL1 frame. i can only get 2 screws in, the other 2 holes are cut too close together. Any tips for a work around? First build ever and not 100% sure on what to expect.

Show 8 more comments
Whiffles   Sep 30, 2018 

Awesome, glad you got it flying! You just need to use a lot of finesse when throttling. I wouldn't bother trimming it as that'll just throw you off. Have you practiced on a micro brushed quad yet? Those can really help you learn throttle control. Another option is to fly a sim like Liftoff for a few days. I wouldn't just jump into flying this one without some practice.

Which goggles are you considering?

Kryoid   Sep 30, 2018 

once I get in to a big open space and have some room to play I think I'll get it down. I have flown a Phantom 4 for a couple years now, even though it's not the same. The phantom has about the same flights mechanics. I did fly on velocideone a few times to get the hang of it while waiting on parts. I am looking at getting the Fat Shark HD3 set since most people say the field of vision is better than the new HDO and the video quality isnt a big enough difference to justify spending the extra 100 bucks. One thing I really need to figure out with this build is how to Top mount the battery so that it isnt near the props and so that the center of gravity is correct. I tried a couple different things tonight but both my test flights was with a temporary bottom mount. I haven't used the sticky pad yet so I hope to make the top mount before my next attempt to fly. any suggestions?

Whiffles   Sep 30, 2018 

Definitely go top mount with this one. I just cut a strip of Ummagrip and I strap my battery just behind the CL1 logo on the top plate. That gives me just enough room for my HD camera up front.

You can't go wrong with the HD3, especially for the warranty. You might also want to look at the EV200D or the Aomway Commander V2. Those are very good goggles as well.

Newb   Sep 17, 2018  

can you make a video for this? that would be very helpful!

Whiffles   Sep 17, 2018 

I won't be able to make a build video for this one in particular, but I'll try to do a build video for one of my next builds.

Baddog   Sep 15, 2018  

what flight times would I expect with this set up ? Im looking for the best lower budget long flight time fpv free style drone.

Whiffles   Sep 15, 2018 

You typically can't expect much more than 3-4 minutes on any of these high performance drones. If you're really light on the throttle you might be able to manage 5 minutes on a larger pack.

DustyAir   Jul 01, 2018  

Are you literally just waiting on the CL1 frame to make this build?

Show 4 more comments
BasicFlyz   Jul 26, 2018 

about to start building one tn,

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

Just finished it up!

GZ   Aug 14, 2018 

looks nice! another job well done, keep it up!

mb1980   Sep 07, 2018  

Amazing write up.  So clear and so much information.  Bravo and thank you.  I'm excited to try and build it.

vanaevans   Sep 07, 2018  

I just wanted to say THIS BUILD ROCKS soldering was a little difficult but turned out sound. Also may i add the frame is extremly durable, smoked a park bench going full throttle with no concequinces. Excellent choice of parts and FC. Thanks Whiffles.

Whiffles   Sep 07, 2018 

Great to hear! Make sure you post it to the site. I want to see how it turned out.

f.z96   Sep 05, 2018  

have you also made a video guide of this build? thanks anyway

Whiffles   Sep 05, 2018 

I'm sorry, but I did not make a video for this one. Maybe the next one.

EzRacerツ   Sep 05, 2018  

do you think a 2 stack would fit, or should i get 25mm standoffs

Whiffles   Sep 05, 2018 

I think you can make it work, but you need to use short standoffs in your stack. No more than 6mm between levels.

EzRacerツ   Sep 04, 2018  

Whats the height of the standoffs you used?

Whiffles   Sep 04, 2018 

These are 20mm standoffs. They're listed under the Misc Parts.

EzRacerツ   Sep 04, 2018 


i-man   Aug 16, 2018  

So beautiful build, again !!!
Thanks for the paracord tip. I use other thing, sort of plastic one, but paracord is so more beautiful.

Whiffles   Aug 16, 2018 

I've tried that plastic mesh and it's terrible to work with. You need a hot blade to cut it properly. This is so much better.

i-man   Sep 04, 2018 

One question: this tip work only for 4/1 esc and only 3 wire. I didn't find paracord large enought to put esc in.
Did you ever try this?

Whiffles   Sep 04, 2018 

You won't fit an entire ESC into some Paracord. Even the normal 550 Paracord isn't wide enough for all 3 motor wires. That's why I recommend Para-Max or Battlecord.

ricardovasc   Sep 04, 2018  

Very nice build. Congrats!

RZFPV   Aug 14, 2018  

do u know how much just the frame weighs

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

Sorry, I didn't weight it before building it. The final weight is around 345g though.

Jodie Froster   Aug 29, 2018 

How does she fly? Frame seems tough but is it so heavy it breaks stuff? Kills batteries?

Quantum FPV   Sep 04, 2018 

That's surprisingly light for a freestyle build! Impressive for a frame that's that cheap and durable looking.

quadfpv   Sep 02, 2018  

Such a nice a rotorbuild but does the FC/ESC combo have vibration dampening of some kind?

Whiffles   Sep 03, 2018 

It does not, but I've found these to work quite well despite that.

quadfpv   Sep 03, 2018 


fyuover   Sep 01, 2018  

What is the little button on the fc for?

Whiffles   Sep 01, 2018 

That's the boot button. You use it to change the firmware, but you don't even need to use it if you flash with Betaflight Configurator.

BlinkFPV   Aug 29, 2018  

Looks nice! Someone can tell me the measure if the front-top screw for maybe design a GoPro support? :)

UltiFix   Aug 25, 2018  


If I wanted to make the 5s capable, what AIO fc would you reccomend I use instead?


Whiffles   Aug 28, 2018 

The Hobbywing F4 board and 4-in-1 is a popular combo.

Mjonlive   Aug 26, 2018  

I have the same setup all but frame are you getting any noise in your video by any chance ?

Whiffles   Aug 26, 2018 

I haven't had a chance to maiden it, but I'll keep an eye out for video noise. Did you add a capacitor?

ArcherFPV   Aug 26, 2018  

very nice build! i see you like the aio fc/esc boards. i have the one from but havent installed it yet but this post gave me some ideas on finishing the build it was going in!

Whiffles   Aug 26, 2018 

They've been treating me pretty well and they're a good value.

Hectic_FPV   Aug 19, 2018  

What is the actual motor to motor measurement?

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Whiffles   Aug 19, 2018 

Sure thing!

Hectic_FPV   Aug 19, 2018 

Frame is already on the way and should be here Tuesday...everything else is sitting on the bench waiting :)

Whiffles   Aug 20, 2018 

Awesome! Be sure to post it to the site!

PRO-pAn3   Aug 18, 2018  

Thank you very much taking the time to compile all of the detailed info. The paracord idea makes for such a sano install.

Jun1or   Aug 16, 2018  

Will you share the stl file for the camera mount?

Whiffles   Aug 16, 2018 

Sorry, I forgot to list the STL for the mount I used! I just added it.

Torch007   Aug 14, 2018  

Beautiful build as always Whiffles. I love how you went with the shorter standoffs. This looks like a beast!!! Nice job!! <3

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

Thank you! For a build like this there isn't any reason to go taller than 20mm.

JC250   Aug 14, 2018  

Have you tried RCX LS2207?

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

Sorry, I have not.

Jodie Froster   Aug 14, 2018  

Beautiful work, I also like the blue and pink style. So why no concern for battery lead strain relief?

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Jodie Froster   Aug 14, 2018 

I have been running a sticky pad and double straps on my top mount for a year and a half now, I haven't thrown a battery in a LONG time. I have similar thoughts on the issue, but I haven't been able to divorce myself from the notion of the necessity of strain relief. I just still have that "what if, and it'll destroy your board" idea running through my head like a scrolling marquee.

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

Yes, it's a valid concern especially considering the cost of these 5-in-1 boards. Fortunately the board is pretty thick.

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

I added some notes about it in the guide. I think I'll get some Ummagrip to make sure that battery never ejects.

Third Eye FPV   Aug 14, 2018  

Slick as usual dude.

About the capacitor attached to the XT60 - I like this idea. However most of my builds have a bottom mounted battery - and my landings aren't actually the softest! How do you think the capacitor would fare with bottom mounted batteries?

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

I think as long as it's off to the side or higher up it shouldn't take any direct hits.

DPJ   Aug 14, 2018  

Amazing!! Your builds are always so clean and simple. Awesome work as ever.

w1nst0n   Aug 14, 2018  

Your builds are always so beautiful!

UnderDawg   Aug 14, 2018  

Nice!!! Look at Whiffles mixing it up with the colors...

Whiffles   Aug 14, 2018 

You can't be the only one!

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