Tagged Products - wireless

ASUS Eee PC 20G (8.9" Screen, 900 MHz Intel Mobile CPU, 1 GB RAM, 20 GB Solid State Drive, Linux Preloaded) Galaxy Black

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ASUS Eee PC 900X 8.9" Sub-Notebook

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NETGEAR HD Gaming Wireless-N Networking Kit

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Grace Digital Wireless Internet Radio

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Sony BRAVIA 1000W 5.1-Ch. Home Theater System w/ 5-Disc Upconvert DVD Player

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positioned well.
The other four sources facilitated by the receiver are external (AUX, SAT/CABLE, TV, DMPORT). Three of the four external sources are audio only (AUX, SAT/CABLE, TV). One is both audio and video (DMPORT), but the video is composite quality only. Of these four external sources, one is accessed on the front panel (AUX) and the remaining three on the back. The types of external source inputs are as follows:
* AUX: front input, miniature stereo phono (audio only)
* SAT/CABLE: RCA stereo (audio only)
* TV: RCA stereo, or digital coaxial, or digital optical (audio only)
* DMPORT: proprietary connection for MP3 player dock (audio and video)
Note that the three output ports on the back of the 576 are: (1) video only, and (2) hardwired internally to just the DVD player = are not configurable to output any other sources (except the composite also can output from the MP3 player). To repeat for clarity and emphasis on the three video outputs:
* Digital HDMI Out (internal DVD only, video only)
* Component Y-Pb/Cb-Pr/Cr Out (internal DVD only)
* Composite RCA Out (internal DVD or MP3 player only)
Finally, you do have one other out port, the miniature stereo phono headphones connection on the front of the 576. Using this connection mutes all the external speakers, naturally.

(2) Speakers. You get a 5.1 surround sound speaker set, the front stereo pair on stands, a ported, passive subwoofer, and two smaller surround speakers that are wired to a small amp that communicates with the main amp wirelessly. Thus, be aware that you need an AC outlet near where you want to put the surround speakers for the surround amp. Connections are bare wires into all speakers, marked for polarity, but color-coded plugs into the main unit that fit only one way to insure proper polarity. The front stereo speaker stands have to be assembled, which takes a little time, with one part about threading the wire into the stand not quite so obvious. Once all connections are made, setup goes fairly well. The autocalibration mic has plenty of cord (perhaps 13-14 feet) to work even a large den. The mic at least gets the estimated distances pretty good, but the individual speaker level settings were way off. I had to go back and redo all levels manually. I did this autocalibration several times just to make sure I had not missed anything, and every time I still had to adjust the levels of the speakers manually. You might have to do this as well.

(3) Wireless Surround. Surround sound to the rear speakers is wireless. The main unit comes with a wireless transceiver that broadcasts surround audio on the 2.4 GHz band to the surround amp wireless receiver. The surround amp is quite oddly shaped, to be honest (over a foot long! 13.5" x 3.5" x 4" LxWxH). The surround speakers, in fact, are wired. That is, these speakers are hooked into this oddly shaped surround amp by running speaker wires from wherever the surround amp is to each speaker's terminals. Hence, the surround sound is only "partially" wireless. Also, seems that Sony has not provided enough wire really to run the speakers, especially not if you have to do something like go up and over a door frame. I had to add a length of my own speaker wire to get to a corner just 12 feet away as the crow flies. Setting up the wireless system is straightforward, and, following instructions carefully, goes without a hitch. You have three ID switches (A, B, C) to choose from to match up among your wireless units (to distinguish from other possible S-AIR units in the neighborhood, but the conflict could hardly occur given limitations of range, unless in a small apartment).

(4) Digital Media Port Adaptor. This is a fancy name for an MP3 dock. The dock is connected to the main unit via a proprietary cable that carries audio and video (composite quality only). Though advertised for Apple iPod, the unit basically really is for Sony products. The main unit's remote controls many elements of the MP3 transport (Play, Stop, Pause, Track Forward, Track Back) and menu (Previous Menu, Next Menu, Up Folder/Item, Down Folder/Item).

(5) S-AIR Receiver. This wireless unit looks like a table radio, and that basically is its function. You have a small, self-amplified stereo speaker system that receives its sound from the 576 main unit. You can set up the S-AIR unit in two modes:
* "Party Mode." The S-AIR joins in with the main unit and tunes in whatever the main unit is doing.
* "Separate Mode." The S-AIR operates independently of the main unit.

Buttons on the top of the S-AIR unit control transport functions of the source dialed in on the S-AIR when in "Separate Mode." For example, if someone is watching a DVD movie on the main unit in the den, someone else in a different room with the S-AIR receiver theoretically could be listening to the main unit's FM tuner and changing stations, or can be listening to a playlist on the MP3 player in the main unit's MP3 dock and controlling transport, such as play, pause, stop, previous and next track. Finally, the S-AIR even can function when the main unit is off (in "Standby" mode). This option is set in the main unit's system menu.

Evaluation:
(1) Audio. The sound is generally satisfactory, being smooth and fairly accurate if the bass is not pushed. Good, flat sound overall probably is the chief factor that sets this HTIB apart from others in the class. Two caveats apply, one minor, the other more serious.
* Subwoofer. First, on the minor side, the passive subwoofer is decent for musical frequencies, even though still a little soft and muddled for my tastes (not quite punchy enough). This subwoofer, however, is at a distinct disadvantage with handling the boom, thunder, and roar of low frequency movie sound effects. Fortunately, I just happened to have a Velodyne CT-100 active subwoofer lying around that has sophisticated circuitry allowing speaker level inputs with audio pass through. So I took the speaker level subwoofer out from the Sony 576 straight into the Velodyne, then passed through the same signal on out to the Sony passive subwoofer. (In this way the Sony amp sees no extra impedence load at all, so is completely unaware of the Velodyne's existence in the circuitry.) I have the Velodyne set to kick in only at those lower frequencies for movie sound effects, and the Sony subwoofer handling just the higher musical frequencies. With this adaptation, I am more satisfied with the audio performance, especially action movies. Your requirements and tastes may be different.
* Equalization. Though the 576's sound is generally OK, just a little dash of EQ would have gone a long way to really making her shine. One distinct downside to the 576 is that the audio allows no EQ settings of any kind anywhere--not even those cheap presets found on many HTIB (such as "Rock," "Classical," "Easy Listening," "Stadium," "Theater"). The user has no option to adjust any EQ. This inability is quite significant given that any room anywhere of any size and configuration will have its own "sound print" (frequency difficiencies) de facto that need to be compensated for to have accurate, clean sound.

(2) Wireless. The S-AIR wireless system broadcasts on the 2.4 GHz band. When some 576 users reported no conflict with their 2.4 GHz wireless computer networks, I thought I was free and clear. Not so. The S-AIR circuitry is supposed to search out a clearer signal in its frequency range to avoid such conflicts, but mine just did not work. I definitely had wireless conflicts with my computer network, and the S-AIR never did get happy until I completely relocated my computer wireless setup. Therefore, I would advise caution about consideration of this HTIB with its wireless surround if you are running anything wireless at 2.4 GHz in the same room or nearby (including phones).

(3) S-AIR Receiver. All sounds very promising with this S-AIR receiver, which is sort of like a remote radio, but reality bites. I found the S-AIR unit in the end a poor system and rather useless. I will mention several critical items that seemed to doom the unit for my use anyway:
* Performance. The S-AIR unit really does not work well. The maximum reception distance is 25-27 feet, and that is line of sight. Somewhere between 27-30 feet, the unit no longer can lock in the signal. I can lock in from my den to my dinette wetbar, which is about 27 feet and line of sight. If I move just a few feet more to the AC socket on the far dinette wall, about 30 feet, the unit simply refuses to lock in. My two cordless phones in the den and dinette are 900 MHz, so not in conflict. To facilitate the wireless of the 576, I moved my 2.4 GHz computer wireless network out of the den due to conflicts between the computer wireless and the 576 wireless. Even after the S-AIR unit locks in, the S-AIR unit is too sensitive; weakened signal strength causes easy loss of the signal. Even when you inadvertently walk in front of the unit, sometimes that is enough to cause the unit to loose its signal. Imagine if you had a party with lots of people moving around. The Sony S-AIR brochure shows the main unit operating subunits all over a two-story house. That is a pure joke in my experience. I have a two-story house. I can barely get the S-AIR unit operating even in the bedroom that is immediately over the den where the 576 main unit is. Even in that bedroom the signal sporadically gets lost after locking in. As a result, my S-AIR unit is gathering dust, simply non-functional in my house. Your mileage may vary, but I would advise not making any decision about the 576 on the basis of the additional S-AIR receiver unit alone, or even as a deciding factor. One matter to consider is if you are in an apartment. The S-AIR might work just fine at the shorter ranges in many apartments, where den and bedroom are just a wall away, for example. Still, I would advise caution and not being too optimistic about its functionality or capability.
* Controls. The S-AIR is meant to control sources from the main unit, including the MP3 player in the docking station. Incredibly, however, while the S-AIR can control basic transport of the MP3 player, such as Play, Pause, Stop, Previous/Next Track, the S-AIR has no menu control. You cannot select a different album or playlist, for example. Thus, if you happen to be only one track from the end of a playlist or album the last time the MP3 was stopped, and hit Play on the S-AIR in another room, you get that one remaining song, and "that's all folks!" Lack of MP3 menu navigation in the control setup of the S-AIR is a huge oversight on the usability of the S-AIR unit for accessing the MP3 player remotely.
* Remote. The S-AIR unit does not have its own remote control. This omission is another important oversight, in my opinion. If you are in a room with an S-AIR unit operating and have to get up and walk over to the unit to turn down the sound just to answer the phone, the sense of user-friendly goes down decidedly.
* Sound. The S-AIR unit's audio is distinctly muddled, which is a surprise given that the main unit does fairly well. The S-AIR unit is way too heavy on bass and sounds like listening through a pillow on the higher frequencies. Further, just like the main unit, the S-AIR Receiver does not have any EQ controls. So the user is simply stuck with that muddled sound.

(4) Remote. The main unit remote does come capable of HDMI function for the Sony "Bravia" sync. If you have all Sony components, you will appreciate this feature. In the main, however, this particular Sony remote suffers from serious design and layout flaws and immediately threatens any sense of being user friendly at first sight. Four examples will suffice:
* Size. The main problem is the tiny body. The remote is 8.25" long, which is a deceptive figure, because all the buttons are crammed into only 5.75" of the top surface. The bottom 2.3" is completely blank. Further, the remote is only 1.8" wide. All of the options and controls of an entire home theater system have been compressed like a trash compactor into a very small space. Further crammed in are the additional functions of the wireless system and the Sony proprietary "Bravia" system, which syncs various Sony components. The end result is that surface buttons and screened letters of this remote are so small and compacted even Peter Pan would be sorely challenged to use the device.
* Inconsistencies. Inconsistencies abound. For some menus, you have to press the "System Menu" button buried in the middle section of all the buttons. Yet, for other menus, you have to press the "Display" button below and to the right of the control ring.
* Interface. A poorly integrated user interface also afflicts this remote. For example, what in the manual are called the main unit's "inputs" or "sources" are accessed through the remote's "Function" area with its dual plus/minus buttons. Say what? Further aggravating the system setup, the main unit's various inputs cannot be accessed directly on the remote, but have to be toggled through by pressing the plus/minus buttons multiple times. This one item alone makes recording macros from the Sony remote to a universal remote a pain of repetition, involving redundant multiple steps over and over again to get to the right input source in various macros.
* Backlit. The 576 remote is not backlit. This problem is a killer due to the physical nature of the remote layout. Sony has produced a remote with black keys on a black face crammed onto a tiny surface area. These keys literally completely disappear with any lowering of light levels in the room, especially watching movies. Guessing is a real crapshoot, since hitting the wrong key in such a small space is so easy. Good thing I already had a bright, backlit universal remote into which to program all the necessary Sony functions.

(5) Digital Media Port Adaptor. The video out of the MP3 docking station is NOT compatible with the newer series iPods beginning with the iPod "Classic" and those related models of the Nano, iPhone, or iTouch. These newer Apple products require an Apple authentication chip for the Apple's iPod video out to work with third-party docks. Apparently, the Sony 576 does not have this Apple chip. Sony clearly intended to advertise their dock as accommodating the Apple iPod, since the iPod logo is seen all over the 576's packaging and advertisements. Nowhere, however, does any advertising, packaging, manual, or even slips of paper alert the consumer to this fundamental video incompatibility with the newer iPods from the "Classic" forward. The "Classic" iPod was out well before the Sony 576, so Sony at least had time to insert a piece of paper somewhere in the box or manual, or to make this clear post-purchase, and should make this clear in current marketing, but they do not.

(6) Connections. The main unit is intentionally crippled from being an actual receiver. This status is true both for inputs and outputs.
* Inputs. Note carefully that source inputs provide audio in only, not video (with the exception of the proprietary DMPORT for the MP3 player). YOU HAVE NO VIDEO INPUTS OF ANY KIND FOR ANY SOURCE. This complete absence of any video input to the 576 cripples the unit as a true receiver. You can input the audio of any device, but not its video. Why not? A home theater setup by default is looking at multiple video systems (Cable, Satellite, VCR, DVR, PS3, Blu-Ray, etc.). Even the simplest old style systems had two video sources (Cable, VCR)!
* Outputs. The 576 outputs go the opposite way. That is, whereas you can output the video of the internal DVD player, you cannot output its audio. Neither can you output the audio of the internal tuner. Further, you cannot pass through the sound of any source coming in. Why not? What if you wanted to supplement the system's own sound with an auxiliary subwoofer, or better front stereo sound? What if you wanted to record the audio from the AM or FM tuner, such as a radio program, or from some other source coming in? No dice. The one solitary option you have is to use the miniature stereo phono headphone out on the front of the unit, but this kills the sound out of the speakers, and requires a preamp to boost the output level for decent recording quality anyway.

Not only is this Sony unit a theater in a box, this theater is locked in its box! Only audio in. Only video out. These are deliberate engineering choices intentionally crippling the system from even the most basic home theater audio/video needs outside the one function of watching a DVD movie. You cannot even get a simple cable video signal directly in (not even a simple 70 Ohm coaxial input).

Thus, be aware that with the Sony 576, all video input in your theater setup must be provided by some other component. Most importantly in today's home theater, if you need to hook up multiple HDMI devices, you will have to depend on the HDMI inputs of some other component, such as your TV, or another true receiver, or an HDMI switcher hooked directly to your TV. In the same vein, you have no easy access to record the audio of any source, internal or external.

(7) Digital Audio. The 576 does have one digital audio in, which can be either coaxial or optical. However, be aware that this digital audio in is hardwired to the TV input (because the 576 assumes the "Bravia" system TV connection). Thus, whatever component is the source of your digital audio, the input source of your audio on the Sony's 576 display always will read "TV"--counterintuitive, not user-friendly, and clearly "Sony only" in design.

(8) Manual. Manuals are manuals. I rarely mention them in reviews. With only a few exceptions, however, this Sony manual screams for comment as a poster child for poor design, confusing discussion, and bad layout. An example of an exception would be the good discussion and diagrams of surround sound speaker placement options. Such examples of clarity, however, are rare. What are the problems?
* Presentation. One major problem is that the manual suffers a split personality and does not keep clear who is being addressed. Sony was lazy. They tried to write three manuals in one. They have three different HTIB models, the 277WC, 279W, and this one being reviewed, the 576WF. Instead of writing a manual for each system, they tried to conflate discussions of all three systems into one manual. What a mess! Every block diagram is repeated three times, which is visually tiring and confusing. Many instructions are repeated three times, except for those that apply to two units, or those that apply to all three units. Talk about confusing! Trying to access the right information for your particular unit in the manual is sometimes an exercise in abject futility. You can waste five minutes or more reading something, when suddenly you realize those paragraphs are not for your model! The reader too easily can get lost even after only a few page turns trying to remember whether the instructions being read at the moment are for the 277, the 279, or the 576, or any combination of the three. Unbelievable.
* Size. Another problem is that the manual is way too small. The booklet is only 5.75" x 8.5", that is, a typical 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper folded in half and turned vertically. Such a small format is nearly impossible to read, because Sony's choice of type size is somewhere between 6 to 8 point (no joke). The diagrams, likewise, when crammed into such a small page format are quite small. Some exploded wiring diagrams are readable, but all diagrams of the backside of the amp are so minuscule they are literally impossible to read. The only salvation is to download Sony's pdf version of the manual from their website and magnify the size about 400%-600% to read the actual words over the port diagrams of the back of the unit--seriously.
* Terminology. Confusing terminology creates a headache for understanding. One example is Sony's terminology for the wireless components of the system. What would a typical audio person think the "S-AIR receiver" is? The typical audio person is going to think the subject is the system's main amp. Instead, Sony conflicts the audio and wireless terminology, forcing Sony to call the main amp not the "receiver," which is standard audio terminology, but the "S-AIR main unit." Then, you have "S-AIR subunits," which is Sony lingo for various other S-AIR devices, such as the wireless surround amplifier or the wireless, self-amplified speaker box. This wireless, self-amplifed speaker box is what Sony means by "S-AIR receiver." Until you make concerted effort trying to retrain your audio lingo, the Sony lingo is plain hard to accommodate. The term "S-AIR receiver" simply causes a knee-jerk reaction of thinking about the system's main amp, not the dinky little box that parrots what the main amp is doing wirelessly.

The most complicated example of confusing terminology in the manual is the discussion of audio. Three different sections completely obliterate any semblance of simplicity.
* Surround Sound. First, you have true 5.1 surround sound. This audio feature is set up automatically at the beginning of the manual with discussion of the supplied calibration mic that calculates speaker distances and level settings. (Many HTIB now have this calibration mic feature.) Users might think they are done setting up their system's audio. Oh, no! Not so fast.
* Surround Sound--Again. Second, later on in the manual one encounters another audio section, "Enjoying Surround Sound by Using Decoding Mode." Is this still about additional steps to take in setting up the 5.1 surround sound? Who knows? Sony is silent about the relationship, although the reader encounters the words "surround sound" in the title. So, maybe this section is about further configuration of the surround sound settings? The novice user easily would think, "Hmm, I guess here is where I now refine the setup of my 5.1 surround sound; the calibration mic must have only got me started." In fact, this section is not about true 5.1 surround sound. This section is about cheap surround EFFECTS. Sony is trying to offer chintzy ways to simulate some kind of sound coming out of the rear speakers from mono (think AM radio) or two-channel sound sources. The reader encounters really esoteric lingo, such as "A.F.D. Multi," "Pro Logic," "PLII Movie," "PLII Music," etc. My guess is that the general consumer buying a HTIB would have a hard time distinguishing all this hoopla, or even when to implement these audio settings (all the time? permanent settings? only on occasion?). What's worse, these audio gimmicks do not work most of the time, leaving one not hearing anything at all out of the surround speakers in the first place. The effects are poorly engineered, poorly explained, and basically useless.
* Sound Mode. Third, on top of this "surround sound" (read "sound effects") jargon, Sony has layered a third level of complication. In a different part of the manual Sony presents a "Selecting the Sound Mode" section. What is this? Surround sound redux, or something else altogether? No word is given on the relationship of this section about audio to any of the others. The reader simply learns of a dedicated "Sound Mode" button on the remote. The remote button toggles among three options, "Auto," "Movie," and "Music." What is this? Part of the surround sound system? Part of the "A.F.D. Multi," "Pro Logic," etc. system? Is this "Sound Mode" button on the remote in addition to, in concert with, or in spite of the "surround sound" choices identified as "A.F.D. Multi," "Pro Logic," etc., or the 5.1 surround sound system the calibration mic set up automatically at the beginning? Sony has not a word to clarify these relationships among three layers of audio settings presented in the manual. Thus, Sony presents a complicated and confusing mixture of three layers of audio settings, what might be identified more simply as SURROUND, EFFECTS, and MODE, but never once explains their relationships or interaction. (I have not even mentioned yet another section, "Enjoying Multiplex Broadcast Sound (Dual Mono)." There's a mouthful.)

Wow. Could you possibly get more complicated or confusing? An experienced audio person could decipher all this and break down all the constituent parts. For example, "PLII" is an allusion to Dolby Pro Logic II, the second incarnation of the Pro Logic system; the experienced audio person would know what that development was all about, so would have a clue what that sound effect was trying to achieve. Yet, what an irony are all these complicated audio settings on the 576! The HTIB design is marketed to the average, non-technical consumer who wants to avoid complicated setups of multiple audio and video components and confusing lingo. Sony could not have defeated that purpose more supremely than with their discussion of audio settings in the 576 manual.

Summary:
Pros:
(1) Inexpensive 5.1 surround sound with partially wireless surround
(2) Good AM/FM tuner with strong reception
(3) DVD/CD player capable of many formats, including playing music/image files
(4) Docking station for MP3 player, controlled by main unit remote
(5) Autocalibrating mic for setting up surround sound
(6) Overall good sound quality, fairly accurate, flat
(7) Main unit remote controls most MP3 player functions
(8) Included S-AIR Receiver unit, when holding its signal, can operate independently of the main unit (even in "Standby" mode)

Cons:
(1) Ports prevent integrating even the most basic home theater components
(2) Digital audio in (coaxial, optical) hardwired to "TV" input
(3) Autocalibration gets distances, but seems to miss speaker levels
(4) "Wireless surround" is only partially wireless, and provided speaker wires are not long enough even for typical setups
(5) The 2.4 GHz wireless system can conflict with other 2.4 GHz devices
(6) Passive subwoofer not really adequate to the task of movie sound effects
(7) Neither main unit audio nor S-AIR Receiver audio have any EQ adjustments
(8) S-AIR Receiver distance performance is inadequate, has no remote, no EQ controls, no menu controls for MP3 player functions, and muddled sound
(9) Main unit remote control is small, crowded, inconsistently implemented, with a poor user interface, and is not backlit
(10) Digital Media Port Adaptor (MP3 docking station) is NOT video compatible with Apple iPod "Classic" and later
(11) Manual conflates multiple models, is too small, and especially complicates audio settings

Conclusion:
I was downsizing my home theater setup on behalf of easier use for wife and friends and wanted to stay within a predetermined budget. Decent sound from the Sony 576WF main unit compels me to stay with this HTIB, even though much that was promised was not delivered. My TV had the multiple inputs needed for various video feeds, as well as high quality audio out for any recording or other audio pass-through functions. I was able to supplement the subwoofer performance with a really good unit I already had and leapfrog the poor remote with my universal remote. I know about audio, so the terrible manual was only frustrating. I already was taking the S-AIR Receiver as a "gimme," so, that the unit is now sitting in a closet is just a mild disappointment, not a deal breaker. I was able to run the wires of the "wireless" surround speakers discretely, so hardly anyone will notice without scrutiny. I moved the conflicting computer wireless network setup out of the den so that the S-AIR surround amp could stay happy and hold its signal. The one remaining problem unsolved is no video out from my iPod using the included Sony dock. I probably will have to scrap the Sony dock just like the S-AIR Receiver. I have to keep in mind that not even "good money" can satisfy every whim, so, that I got by this cheaply for decent movie watching and easier operation for family and friends is a goal achieved. Not a ringing endorsement, I know, but the whole experience was not a joy ride either.

Apple Wireless Mighty Mouse

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use, is perfect. In other words, 2/2.

That being said, I expect a little more out of Apple.

As others have noted, if you have your pointer finger on the left of the mouse, it is difficult to register a right click (due to the collapsing nature of the click mechanism). To have a flawless right click, you need to life your pointer finger. Of course, left-clicking works well.

The left and right side buttons, which apparently match your thumb and ring fingers, are quite difficult to operate. In the process of squeezing in my thumb, for example, I can't help but compress the mouse itself, which results in a left click. The right side is even more difficult and usually requires the a bit more manipulative force. I'm not sure if Apple made the buttons too stiff or if I am doing something wrong--but, a mouse being a mouse, I cannot imagine that I am making an error in use. Hence, 1/2--for a total of 3/4 of the way there.

All that being said, I hope that over time two things happen: (1) I get used to it and the mechanisms "break in," and (2) that Apple tweaks the design to allow easier operation of the side buttons and right click. While it's "close" to what I expect from Apple, it's not "close enough." I would buy it again, however, because I wanted something Apple, and that's exactly what I received.

ASUS Eee PC 900L 8.9" Sub-Notebook

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the router is in, but range is less or even impossible through walls that many larger laptop wifi chips would connect. I have a cheap external USB wifi thumb device that I use when the router range is beyond the internal chip. Three USB ports are nice...I have a USB mouse, but would prefer Bluetooth capability to save even that port use.
All in all I think most people will find it a great ultra portable as long as they realize battery life is less than three hours (which is about like most regular laptops). There are heavier third-party batteries that can deliver much longer usage and I would never buy the standard 4-cell battery at the prices I have seen. The newer models promise much greater battery life and bigger SSD capacity so Asus has a winner indeed. Get ultra portables down to VCR prices in five or less years and we'll have one in every classroom student's hands in America. That's a multi-billion dollar market even at $100 a unit.

Grace Digital Wireless Internet Radio

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the router is in, but range is less or even impossible through walls that many larger laptop wifi chips would connect. I have a cheap external USB wifi thumb device that I use when the router range is beyond the internal chip. Three USB ports are nice...I have a USB mouse, but would prefer Bluetooth capability to save even that port use.

All in all I think most people will find it a great ultra portable as long as they realize battery life is less than three hours (which is about like most regular laptops). There are heavier third-party batteries that can deliver much longer usage and I would never buy the standard 4-cell battery at the prices I have seen. The newer models promise much greater battery life and bigger SSD capacity so Asus has a winner indeed. Get ultra portables down to VCR prices in five or less years and we'll have one in every classroom student's hands in America. That's a multi-billion dollar market even at $100 a unit.

Garmin nuvi 760 Automobile Portable GPS-Garmin nuvi 760 Automobile Portable GPS

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the router is in, but range is less or even impossible through walls that many larger laptop wifi chips would connect. I have a cheap external USB wifi thumb device that I use when the router range is beyond the internal chip. Three USB ports are nice...I have a USB mouse, but would prefer Bluetooth capability to save even that port use.


All in all I think most people will find it a great ultra portable as long as they realize battery life is less than three hours (which is about like most regular laptops). There are heavier third-party batteries that can deliver much longer usage and I would never buy the standard 4-cell battery at the prices I have seen. The newer models promise much greater battery life and bigger SSD capacity so Asus has a winner indeed. Get ultra portables down to VCR prices in five or less years and we'll have one in every classroom student's hands in America. That's a multi-billion dollar market even at $100 a unit.

Garmin nuvi 760 Automobile Portable GPS-Garmin nuvi 760 Automobile Portable GPS

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the router is in, but range is less or even impossible through walls that many larger laptop wifi chips would connect. I have a cheap external USB wifi thumb device that I use when the router range is beyond the internal chip. Three USB ports are nice...I have a USB mouse, but would prefer Bluetooth capability to save even that port use.



All in all I think most people will find it a great ultra portable as long as they realize battery life is less than three hours (which is about like most regular laptops). There are heavier third-party batteries that can deliver much longer usage and I would never buy the standard 4-cell battery at the prices I have seen. The newer models promise much greater battery life and bigger SSD capacity so Asus has a winner indeed. Get ultra portables down to VCR prices in five or less years and we'll have one in every classroom student's hands in America. That's a multi-billion dollar market even at $100 a unit.

Apple Time Capsule 500GB External Wireless Network Hard Drive

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SuperDuper to back-up my newly installed Leopard & Vista partitions, transferred them to TC, then use TC as my wireless data back-up hard drive.
i know i haven't used TC's full potential. but Apple needs to maximize TC's full potential with either firmware or software upgrades.

Garmin Forerunner 405 GPS Enabled Sports Watch with USB ANT Stick - Black

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problems.

This watch does not currently work well with Macs. I have many computers at home, including 3 Macs, my main computer being a Al iMac. I just use Parallels and XP for data transfer and analysis for the 405 currently. My hope is that Garmin meets their promise of Mac compatibility in 2008, but the workaround with Parallels works OK for now.

If you are a gadget person and run/bike and love to review and collect data this is the product for you. I definitely fit that segment and love the 405. Only Mac compatibility and the somewhat complex menu system keep this from being rated 5 stars by me. If you prefer simplicity of operation and do not like gadgets much, my recommendation would be to choose a less complex watch with HRM.

Garmin Forerunner 405 GPS Enabled Sports Watch with USB ANT Stick - Black

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sort-of iPod like bezel interface is good, but takes some
getting used to. Overall, it's better that the massive
button pushing that would otherwise be required. It is only
slightly larger and heavier than a regular wristwatch, and it
looks nice enough to wear in a non-training setting.

It's OK, but it would have been much, much better with a
standard USB interface.

Sony VAIO TP20E/W Desktop-VAIO TP20EW SFF T8100 2.1G 2GB SYST500GB BRDVDRW WVHP NVIDIA

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web have I seen this called out--I had to learn it for myself, after ordering a $300 digital cable tuner from Sony, havnig the cable company install a cableCARD in it, only to have the computer tell me "Your computer is not digital cable ready. You will not be able to set it up for use with acableCARD."

So, if you can't live without digital cable, look elsewhere. Otherwise, I highly recommend this product.

Eye-Fi Wireless 2GB SD Memory Card

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web have I seen this called out--I had to learn it for myself, after ordering a $300 digital cable tuner from Sony, havnig the cable company install a cableCARD in it, only to have the computer tell me "Your computer is not digital cable ready. You will not be able to set it up for use with acableCARD."



So, if you can't live without digital cable, look elsewhere. Otherwise, I highly recommend this product.

Samsung SPF-83V Digital Photo Frame-SPF-83V 8IN 64MB FL PERPSD/MMC/MS/XD/CF WIRELESS

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settings.

Cons:
- Short on memory - 64M is ridiculously small - although since it pulls pictures across the WiFi, that isn't a huge issue.
- White frame is a bit bright - would prefer black or something less shiny.
- No wall hanging, although it's quite thin, so it should be possible to fashion something easy.
- Portrait images auto-rotated by the camera aren't upright on the display, although once processed by Lightroom or Picasa and exported the right thing happens
- A little costly.

A good solution for the parent's house - can point it to a specific Flickr collection and update that from round the world.

SAMSUNG 5 DVD HM THEATER WI-FI XM READY NIC

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from all the speakers and called Samsung tech support, who were helpful.

I use this system in an 18x14 room with lots of windows and skylights and get great sound. If you hook your ipod into this system(an adaptor is provided) you will think that you are at a concert. I highly recommend this.

Linksys Wireless-G Broadband Router

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from all the speakers and called Samsung tech support, who were helpful.



I use this system in an 18x14 room with lots of windows and skylights and get great sound. If you hook your ipod into this system(an adaptor is provided) you will think that you are at a concert. I highly recommend this.

Sony Stereo Bluetooth Transmitter for Apple iPod

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Touch. So here I am with a snazzy new iPod and no wireless audio for which I have become so spoiled by. It was a no brainer for me to run out at buy the Sony TMR-BT8IP iPod Wireless Bluetooth Transmitter. It was a snap to set up and provided very robust sound quality to the headset. I have been loving the freedom of wireless on my daily commutes. The headset still plays nice with my cell and will even connect to both devices so i can listen to music from the iPod, but kindly be interrupted if my cellphone rings.

Here is my quick breakdown for the two devices


Sony TMR-BT8IP iPod Wireless Bluetooth Transmitter

Pros
-Small (About the size of a nickle)
-No battery (Uses power from iPod)
-Provides a quality signal to receiving device
Cons
-Pricey (Retail $69)
-Drains iPod battery about twice as fast

ASUS Eee PC 900L 8.9" Sub-Notebook

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perform an extremely fast double click, and it would often repeatedly/consecutively do this. This gets extremely irritating very fast. Updating the touch pad driver had no effect for me.

As for the touch pad buttons, they are way too stiff. Perhaps they wear down after a lot of use, but I'd go insane before ever finding out.

Lastly, and the least excusable, is the battery life. For a device like this it's simply inexcusably awful. This is with the 5800mAh battery: with wireless OFF (FN + F2) and the screen dimmed down to its second most dark setting (which is really unacceptably dark for all but the very best-lit environments), this thing barely lasted over 2 hours. One more battery cycle to confirm this pathetic performance and I was ready to box it up and send it back.

I can forgive a lot of things regarding a tiny laptop, the small screen, small keyboards that are tricky to type on, etc. That is totally excusable.

But what a tiny laptop with a small screen, no optical drive, and a solid state hard drive should absolutely excel at is battery life, and this fails horribly. Less than 2.5hrs with a darkened screen and disabled wifi is just inexcusable.

If you're still really intent on a micro laptop, I still wouldn't recommend the 900, I'd highly recommend you just wait a few weeks for the Eee PC 901. It features the new highly efficient Intel Atom which uses far less energy and therefore improves battery life (hopefully Intel will develop a new efficient chipset to go along with it).

I still love the idea of an Eee PC and look forward to what Asus and other companies will have to offer over the coming year or so. If this had a minimum 8GB primary SSD, a far better touch pad and buttons, and the battery lasted 4+ hours with wifi enabled and the brightness halfway up, I'd love it.