Tagged with - plasma

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Samsung PN50C450 50-Inch 720p Plasma HDTV (Black)

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sit 10 feet away from the screen, and I can tell you the only thing that I have seen with my own eyes better than this, after spending countless hours at MODA and other Home Theatre stores from Houston, Texas to College, Station Texas is the likes of the Pioneer Elite and the line up from Panasonic Plasmas' that best this set. This is an entry level Plasma, without all of the bells and whistles that gives you a beautiful picture every time you turn it on. Now for the cons: the higher the contrast, you hear the buzz, but only when you are not using a surround sound system. Does it have Netflix, etc? No, I can get that over my PS3 and my Xbox 360, Does it have PIP? No, I get that with DirecTv. I am completely satisfied with my purchase. Oh, forgot to mention that it comes with the 3D sync out, so all I have to add is a transmitter,the glasses and wait for the Sony PS3 3d update, and I'll be watching movies in 3D by early summer. Now how do you like that for a budget TV?

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Samsung PN42C450 42-Inch 720p Plasma HDTV (Black)

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vs 720p a lot of thought before purchasing this set. I shouldn't have bothered-it's just marketing hype, in my opinion. All I can say is that the picture's better than the one I got on the Sony. And getting it for $539 makes it that much better. Oh, and don't forget the SquareTrade three year warranty for $47...

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Panasonic TC-P42S2 42-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

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is making, but from what I understand in doing research it helps to have it. Cable: HD looks good - even the reds aren't blown out. Basic cable is standard definition - a thing on it's way out anyway, lol. Aesthetics/connections: The TV is very sharp looking, and the anti-glare feature on the S model (as opposed to the U model) actually makes a difference. I rolled my eyes when I read the feature, but I'm watching it in the daytime in a well-lit room and the glare is really minimal. The only minor dissapointment is no VGA connection, but I'll figure out a way around that. Was going to use VGA to hook up my 360 (since I'm using computer speakers for audio at the moment), but will go the component route now. By the way, a TON of controls and an HDMI input are on the side of the tv, making it very easy to get to. Burn-in/image retention/ghosting: Haven't experienced any signs of even ghosting yet. Had my game on pause for a few minutes a couple times to test it. Audio: Haven't tested the TV's speakers, just using an external set of logitech speakers with subwoofer at the moment. Overall: For the price, I highly recommend the set. Like I said, I own 4 televisions of 3 different technologies and this one shows off the best picture. I have a collection of almost 800 blu-rays, and stay up to date on all the high-def news, etc... I do extensive research before purchasing a product, and actually went into this thinking I was going to give in and get an LED. I don't want to get into an LED vs. Plasma thing here, but the LED's are simply LCD with different lighting, and it brings all the inherent LCD problems with it. They make catch your eye in the store, but once you get home and get into your environment, it's a different story. That said, this plasma in game mode gets the picture as close to LED as I've seen but with much better blacks.

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Samsung PN58B650 58-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

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i read about was the whole 1080p/24 cinema smooth deal, and i can report that my tv switched between 24 and 60 hz with no changes to my picture settings before and after i watched a blu ray. The picture on it is easily the best, smoothest, and most natural looking i have ever seen. Even HD commercials look staggeringly good. I've played with the settings some using a couple calibration guides i found on the net, but in all honesty this TV looks incredible right out of the box and 90% of people will be completely happy with the stock settings. The only thing i did right away was turn the contrast down a bit because it was factory set at 100. This TV produces the brightest, cleanest whites and deepest, richest blacks i have ever laid eyes on. I watched Lost in HD and my jaw was constantly dropping. Even the little water splash on the ABC logo during commercial breaks floored me. I played Finding Nemo on upconverted DVD for the kids and even they were amazed. Also a couple buddies came over and i played the opening sequence on Fast and Furious with the surround sound jacked up and i could tell they were thinking about killing me and stealing my tv. i paired mine up with the HT-BD1250 Blu Ray surround system also from Samsung, and it has a couple integration features with the TV that are quite nice. I can control all basic functions of the Blu Ray player with the TV remote; and at any time no matter what i'm watching on what input, i can hit "tools" on the tv remote and turn on the surround sound and the 1250 automatically turns on and turns to the correct input, and the tv remote volume control automatically switches to control the surround sound. pretty sweet. also when i turn the tv off the blu ray player automatically turns off too which is a nice feature, and you can turn that on or off in the menu.

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Samsung PN42C450 42-Inch 720p Plasma HDTV (Black)

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i read about was the whole 1080p/24 cinema smooth deal, and i can report that my tv switched between 24 and 60 hz with no changes to my picture settings before and after i watched a blu ray. The picture on it is easily the best, smoothest, and most natural looking i have ever seen. Even HD commercials look staggeringly good. I've played with the settings some using a couple calibration guides i found on the net, but in all honesty this TV looks incredible right out of the box and 90% of people will be completely happy with the stock settings. The only thing i did right away was turn the contrast down a bit because it was factory set at 100. This TV produces the brightest, cleanest whites and deepest, richest blacks i have ever laid eyes on. I watched Lost in HD and my jaw was constantly dropping. Even the little water splash on the ABC logo during commercial breaks floored me. I played Finding Nemo on upconverted DVD for the kids and even they were amazed. Also a couple buddies came over and i played the opening sequence on Fast and Furious with the surround sound jacked up and i could tell they were thinking about killing me and stealing my tv. i paired mine up with the HT-BD1250 Blu Ray surround system also from Samsung, and it has a couple integration features with the TV that are quite nice. I can control all basic functions of the Blu Ray player with the TV remote; and at any time no matter what i'm watching on what input, i can hit "tools" on the tv remote and turn on the surround sound and the 1250 automatically turns on and turns to the correct input, and the tv remote volume control automatically switches to control the surround sound. pretty sweet. also when i turn the tv off the blu ray player automatically turns off too which is a nice feature, and you can turn that on or off in the menu.

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Samsung PN63B590 63-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

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i read about was the whole 1080p/24 cinema smooth deal, and i can report that my tv switched between 24 and 60 hz with no changes to my picture settings before and after i watched a blu ray. The picture on it is easily the best, smoothest, and most natural looking i have ever seen. Even HD commercials look staggeringly good. I've played with the settings some using a couple calibration guides i found on the net, but in all honesty this TV looks incredible right out of the box and 90% of people will be completely happy with the stock settings. The only thing i did right away was turn the contrast down a bit because it was factory set at 100. This TV produces the brightest, cleanest whites and deepest, richest blacks i have ever laid eyes on. I watched Lost in HD and my jaw was constantly dropping. Even the little water splash on the ABC logo during commercial breaks floored me. I played Finding Nemo on upconverted DVD for the kids and even they were amazed. Also a couple buddies came over and i played the opening sequence on Fast and Furious with the surround sound jacked up and i could tell they were thinking about killing me and stealing my tv. i paired mine up with the HT-BD1250 Blu Ray surround system also from Samsung, and it has a couple integration features with the TV that are quite nice. I can control all basic functions of the Blu Ray player with the TV remote; and at any time no matter what i'm watching on what input, i can hit "tools" on the tv remote and turn on the surround sound and the 1250 automatically turns on and turns to the correct input, and the tv remote volume control automatically switches to control the surround sound. pretty sweet. also when i turn the tv off the blu ray player automatically turns off too which is a nice feature, and you can turn that on or off in the menu.

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Samsung PN42C450 42-Inch 720p Plasma HDTV (Black)

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the screw holes were completely drilled out, but I managed. Sound is great, no buzzing or anything. It is very sleek and stylish and makes my living room look great. Menu is very easy to navigate and viewing pictures with a card reader or USB is a snap. Just plug it in and you have many options for slideshows with music and other options. PC input also very simple to hook up. You will not be disappointed. Especially with the free shipping, no tax (for me at least) and the great amazon price, this HDTV cannot be beat!

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CHEETAH MOUNTS PLASMA LCD TV ARTICULATING DUAL ARM WALL MOUNT FOR 32-63" DISPLAYS UP TO 165LBS BLACK

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to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

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Panasonic TC-P42S2 42-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

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to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

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Samsung PN50B450 50-Inch 720p Plasma HDTV

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to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

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Panasonic VIERA G10 Series TC-P46G10 46-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

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to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

+ 0 likes

Panasonic VIERA U1 Series TC-P42U1 42-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

...

to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

+ 0 likes

Panasonic TC P65V10 - 65" plasma TV - widescreen - 1080p (FullHD) - HDTV

...

to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

+ 0 likes

Hercules(by Opteka) HRM-100 Super Strong Plasma and LCD TV Dual-Arm Articulating Wall Mount for 32-Inch to 60-Inch Displays (Black)

...

to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

+ 0 likes

Panasonic TC-P50S2 50-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

...

to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

+ 0 likes

Panasonic TC-P50S2 50-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

...

to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

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Panasonic TC-P42S2 42-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

...

to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

+ 0 likes

Samsung PN50B450 50-Inch 720p Plasma HDTV

...

to torque the center bolt hard enough to hold the desired angle. I was concerned about the quality of the fasteners supplied with the kit. The lock washers were way to thin and the machining of the finished screws were rough, so I purchased my own high quality hardware for peace of mind. Here's what I bought at Lowe's for about $25 (List includes variation four mounting to a wall stud): - Four 5/16" x 1.5", grade 8.8 Hex screw(I couldn't find M8s, but 5/16 is close enough). There are different grades of bolts. Grade 8 is the highest grade, ensuring that the tensile strength of the bolt will hold the combined weight of the bracket and TV. I believe the bolts supplied with the kit is 5, which is probably enough, but I can't be assured that bolts are actually Grade 5. Grade 8 can be identified by the Stamp "8.x" on the head, or by six lines aligned in a radial pattern, stamped in the head. (If fastening to a wall stud, buy 5/16" x 3" lag bolts instead of the hex screws. All other fasteners, listed below, still apply.) - Eight lock washers. Lock washers will prevent the the nuts from loosening. I used four for the mount and four to mount the arms to the TV. - Eight flat washers (Grade 8). Washers are used to distribute the load across the surface. - Four 5/16" x 1.5" fender washers. The fender washers went behind the cabinet wall. The larger surface area of the washer distributes the load across a larger surface. - Four 5/16" nuts. These are used to fasten the bolts to the cabinet - Four M8 x 30mm, 1.25 course threaded machine screws (1.0 threads don't fit Panasonic). M designates the screw as being metric as opposed to SAE. I used longer screws to accommodate the additional thickness of the washer and lock nut that I added. I took the M8 x 30mm screws, slipped on the lock washer, the flat washer and then finger tightened the mounting arms to the TV. I had to make sure that all my measurements were spot on so that the TV wouldn't be misaligned in the cabinet space, which is why I didn't tighten the screws. The mounting arms (on the TV) have a 'slot', in the shape of a upside-down U, where it will eventually be hung over the lip of the wall mount (the slot will slide onto the mounting plate). I measured the top of the TV to the top of slot on the mounting arm. I used this to figure out where to mark the top holes for the wall mount in the cabinet so the TV would sit vertically centered. I have to admit, I did this about seven times to make absolutely sure that I had the measurement correct. I removed the arms and repositioned mounting holes a few times until I got it right. I then tightened the screws. Don't over tighten or you will strip the threads in the TV. I suggest that you tighten the nuts with the ratchet so that it is firmly snug (don't muscle it). Then do a quarter turn to lock it down. The supplied level isn't really accurate, as the lines on either side of the bubble have too much space, leaving a chance that you can be a few degrees off of alignment. This will result in a tilted TV. I used my own laser level (your own bubble level is probably better than the one supplied) to align the top two holes of the wall bracket. I used a awl to mark the holes, creating an indentation in the wood to ensure that the drill bit wouldn't stray off mark. After drilling the top two holes (using 5/16 drill bit), I mounted the bracket (I did it myself, but two people would have been better), then center-marked and drilled the two bottom holes, using the wall bracket as my template. I drilled the two bottom holes and then mounted the wall bracket taking the 5/16" bolts and slipping on the lock washer and flat washer. I then mounted the wall bracket and inserted the first screw to secure the bracket, followed by the rest of the screws. I then slipped on the fender washer in the back of the cabinet then screwed on the nut. I had to use two ratchets to tighten the fasteners. I used one knee raised up to prop the bracket, while balancing on the ladder. Let me tell you it's darn heavy when you're doing it yourself! I don't advise doing this and I wouldn't do it again if I had to...really stupid. Fortunately, my wife wasn't around while I did it. Otherwise, I would have never heard the end of it. I tested the wall bracket by hanging off of it for a minute. It reminded me of Jr high watching the girls do the hang instead of a pull up. The bracket held up my 167 lb frame, although I'm embarrassed to say that I'm out of shape. One minute of hanging killed me. I guess it does take a bit of strength to just hang there! Next, I set up a series of three steps, each increasing in height, below the wall bracket (my wife's great idea), to allow us do a series of lifts instead of one big lift. Doing so allowed my wife and I to safely hang the TV. I then inserted the safety bar (This securely fastens the bottom of the arm bracket to the wall bracket. Make sure the bar is behind the lip of the wall bracket. Otherwise, the TV will be swinging free on the bottom! Next I horizontally centered the TV by sliding the TV left/right. I tightened some of the bolts in the wall mount hinges as they were a little loose. Don't over tighten otherwise you will find that the hinges will bind and won't move. The last step was to adjust the tilt. Unlike other reviewers that I read, the knob for the center bolt was strong an didn't break. However, I found that I wasn't able to generate enough torque to tighten the bolt to hold the TV in place. I some how managed to crank it to lock it in position. I hope it stays in place. If not, I'll have to use Joseph from IL's tip to use some Cleve pins to lock it in place. Stepping back, I was admiring the centering and perfectly level position of the TV. Good thing I spent all that time measuring the vertical alignment! The measuring was what took the most time in the installation. The mount held up, with no noticeable sag from holding up my 110 lb. plasma. I've added two pictures so you can see the finished job and a behind the TV mounting plate shot. Legalese info: The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that I make no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.

+ 0 likes

Samsung PN42B450 42-Inch 720p Plasma HDTV

...

taste. In addition, careful inspection of the Samsung's plasma screen revealed no defective pixels. For some reason, the Panasonic had several bright red and blue pixels and its plasma screen "flickered" in brightness when trying to display bright images on dark backgrounds. The Samsung had no such problem. It's worth noting that the first Samsung I tried had a "noisy" plastic bezel surrounding the screen that made crackling noises as the TV warmed up. After some internet research, I found that very few owners have had this problem and it is solved by exchanging the TV for one that does not have the problem bezel. So, I exchanged my first 42B450 for a second unit and the second one makes absolutely no crackling noises whatsoever. Based on my research, I believe that a brief production run of the Samsungs were built in late 2009/early 2010 with some "noisy" plastic bezels. Again, most people do not appear to have this problem.

Overall, the Samsung is a better performer than the Panasonic. I really enjoy the color fidelity, sharpness, and user adjustments available on the Samsung 42B450. It's one of the best values among plasmas.

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Panasonic VIERA G10 Series TC-P42G10 42-Inch 1080p Plasma HDTV

...

If they fix it, I'll get over my misery. If they don't fix it soon, I'm going to replace it with something that works. I've had a Sony in another room for 4 years and it works great... tick tock tick tock tick tock tick tock tick tock tick tock tick tock ...